electrical boxes in poured concrete studs I found that Carlon has some stuff in their ENT line for this purpose--four square mud boxes that can be nailed to forms, and "stub downs" that can be used to transition tubing .
I just removed two bathroom vanity lights to replace them and discovered that there was no junction box behind either. One light was mounted over a stud and the other was right next the a stud. At first I thought I could use old work pancake boxes, but the problem is that in both cases, the in-wall wiring runs directly over the stud.
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2 · poured in place electrical box
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Local method by most electricians is to put pipes only in place, then chase out the walls, put in boxes, but I have found it neater to put everything in before pouring concrete. Still a lot of work either way, but with more and . Is a Handy Box sufficient or should I use all 4x4 with raised covers? What's your preference? I've worked with both in the past, but the .Your electrical has to be installed in concrete walls before they are poured. Otherwise you will be bolting boxes and conduit to the surface and then explaining to the architect why the wall finish . Installing electrical boxes on masonry walls, like brick or concrete, can be a bit more challenging than with standard walls, but it is essential when adding outlets or switches. These .
I need to mount 4″ square x 1 1/2″ outlet boxes to the concrete forms for outlets in an inside wall. They will be connected to each other by 1/2″ emt. I am concerned that if the . I found that Carlon has some stuff in their ENT line for this purpose--four square mud boxes that can be nailed to forms, and "stub downs" that can be used to transition tubing .The simplest and most effective way to attach an electrical box to a Superior Wall stud facing is to use a box with a side bracket, as shown in the detail below. An electrical box with a side . Local method by most electricians is to put pipes only in place, then chase out the walls, put in boxes, but I have found it neater to put everything in before pouring concrete. Still a lot of work either way, but with more and more mud rings on the market, that is helping reduce the problems of finishing.
Is a Handy Box sufficient or should I use all 4x4 with raised covers? What's your preference? I've worked with both in the past, but the Handy Boxes get real tight on looped circuits. I've never installed boxes in poured concrete walls. How do you seal and secure the boxes to keep them flush and free from concrete? I'd go masonry boxes, tape the holes/opening, pre install ground pigtails and figure out a way to hold them 100% tight to the form.Your electrical has to be installed in concrete walls before they are poured. Otherwise you will be bolting boxes and conduit to the surface and then explaining to the architect why the wall finish has to be changed. I have several questions concerning wiring methods for Insulated Concrete Forms (ICF). First; can you use standard non-metallic boxes attached with tap cons after foam removed to allow installation?
Installing electrical boxes on masonry walls, like brick or concrete, can be a bit more challenging than with standard walls, but it is essential when adding outlets or switches. These boxes keep your wiring safe from damage and make sure your setup meets building codes. Masonry installations require the right tools and know-how to get it right. I need to mount 4″ square x 1 1/2″ outlet boxes to the concrete forms for outlets in an inside wall. They will be connected to each other by 1/2″ emt. I am concerned that if the boxes are not secured strongly to the form board it will be dislodged during the pour. Any ideas?
I am thinking of using metal boxes with a baked on epoxy paint in the hose-down areas. Boxes like Pass & Seymour WPB23. P & S catalog But I don't know how these would be mounted in a block wall. In other areas, I'm not sure if I should stick with the weatherproof boxes, or allow your typical steel boxes, or if regular plastic boxes can be used. Stuff the box with styrofoam to keep concrete out. Use scrap iron or rebar to build a bracing to hold it against the form and tie this to the rebar grid. Another possible method would be to cut a piece of PVC (pipe, rod, whatever) that fits between the forms and tie the outlet box to . I found that Carlon has some stuff in their ENT line for this purpose--four square mud boxes that can be nailed to forms, and "stub downs" that can be used to transition tubing or conduit out of a form after the form has been stripped. Local method by most electricians is to put pipes only in place, then chase out the walls, put in boxes, but I have found it neater to put everything in before pouring concrete. Still a lot of work either way, but with more and more mud rings on the market, that is helping reduce the problems of finishing.
Is a Handy Box sufficient or should I use all 4x4 with raised covers? What's your preference? I've worked with both in the past, but the Handy Boxes get real tight on looped circuits. I've never installed boxes in poured concrete walls. How do you seal and secure the boxes to keep them flush and free from concrete? I'd go masonry boxes, tape the holes/opening, pre install ground pigtails and figure out a way to hold them 100% tight to the form.Your electrical has to be installed in concrete walls before they are poured. Otherwise you will be bolting boxes and conduit to the surface and then explaining to the architect why the wall finish has to be changed.
I have several questions concerning wiring methods for Insulated Concrete Forms (ICF). First; can you use standard non-metallic boxes attached with tap cons after foam removed to allow installation? Installing electrical boxes on masonry walls, like brick or concrete, can be a bit more challenging than with standard walls, but it is essential when adding outlets or switches. These boxes keep your wiring safe from damage and make sure your setup meets building codes. Masonry installations require the right tools and know-how to get it right. I need to mount 4″ square x 1 1/2″ outlet boxes to the concrete forms for outlets in an inside wall. They will be connected to each other by 1/2″ emt. I am concerned that if the boxes are not secured strongly to the form board it will be dislodged during the pour. Any ideas?
I am thinking of using metal boxes with a baked on epoxy paint in the hose-down areas. Boxes like Pass & Seymour WPB23. P & S catalog But I don't know how these would be mounted in a block wall. In other areas, I'm not sure if I should stick with the weatherproof boxes, or allow your typical steel boxes, or if regular plastic boxes can be used. Stuff the box with styrofoam to keep concrete out. Use scrap iron or rebar to build a bracing to hold it against the form and tie this to the rebar grid. Another possible method would be to cut a piece of PVC (pipe, rod, whatever) that fits between the forms and tie the outlet box to .
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poured in place electrical box
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electrical boxes in poured concrete studs|poured in place electrical box