old work round junction box for vanity light site diy.stackexchange.com DIY Vanity Light: Can You Use an Old Work Box? • DIY Vanity Light • Learn how to safely use an old work box for a vanity light installation. Ensure proper anchoring, weight. Extend the power output options of your Sony BURANO cinema camera with this D-Box + B-Box System Bundle from Wooden Camera. The bundle includes the D-Box power distribution unit with a Gold mount battery plate and the B-Box power extension unit.
0 · vanity light work box replacement
1 · vanity light installation
2 · vanity light box replacement
3 · vanity light box installation
4 · old work box for vanity light
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I looked at various guides on changing or adding vanity lights and most seem to use these boxes (Which "seem" to be rated for 6 lb's, and only mention NOT to use them for ceilings). Yes, an old work box is completely safe for what you're . I have a vanity light that weighs 5.6 lbs. The old work box I have is rated for 6 lbs. This seems very close to me. Is there something else I should be using? I am changing out the vanity light, above a sink and mirror, in a bathroom. The old light fixture had it's own wall plate screwed to the wall that .
DIY Vanity Light: Can You Use an Old Work Box? • DIY Vanity Light • Learn how to safely use an old work box for a vanity light installation. Ensure proper anchoring, weight.
vanity light work box replacement
Wall box for bathroom vanity light. There is no box in the wall behind the existing light, just a hole in the sheetrock that they pulled the wires through .4 Share. Sort by: [deleted] • 4 yr. ago. Best option is to take out that box. Then cut a 4-1/8” hole and install a round plastic cut-in (old work) box. Reply. Share. distantreplay. • 4 yr. ago. You .
Old Work Electrical Box (For Wall): https://amzn.to/3rR1lQbElectric Detector Pen: https://amzn.to/44HHmSKYou can check out our ever-growing storefront of coo. The old mirror is wired for electric lighting, but the new mirror is just a mirror with no attached lighting fixture. . If the wires are installed in a junction box, then wire nut them separately, wrap some electrical tape around them, insert them back into the junction box and cover the box with an approved cover plate. . Once I remove the .As an added bonus, most of the wiring is fabric insulated copper. You can see the single wire coming from the light switch has cracked insulation. I was going to move all of this into a typical round old work box, but then I realized it's directly .
Thanks for the edit to identify the actual situation - the fire blocking explanation makes sense. I ended up moving the switch up as per DA01 and your suggestions, with the only issue being that I put the work box directly on top of . Box and hence fixture is not grounded. If wiring is 1920's or later AC, maybe a ground but iffy due to the rusted box. Time to rewire your house. Replace old rubber/cloth insulated wire with modern NMB. Then the box with a proper old work bracket fan box. Might mean some plaster damage, but better than the house burning to the ground. Assuming the cable sheath ends within a few inches of the wall, you should be able to cut a hole to match a box and install a box. The left edge should be at the stud - mount the box to the stud. The cable will need to go into the box so that the outer sheath fits through a proper clamp. On plastic boxes these are usually part of the box.
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I want to replace a light fixture that was put in the 60s with recessed light. The junction box looks to be held in place by a metal 'u' shaped bar, with the 'u' bend going over the junction box. . lighting; ceiling; junction-box; old-work; Share. Improve this question. Follow edited Apr 23, 2020 at 17:45. Alaska Man . However, the old off-center box did not only contain wiring of the circuit to the fixture-- instead there were two Romex lines entering the box-- a 12/2 and a 12/3. There were 3-way connections between the corresponding wires of the 12/2, 12/3, and fixture, with the exception that the black fixture wire was wired to the red 12/3 wire for a switch.
Generally, assume you want a 4" octagon box, which is 3.5" on the flats and 4" in the cornerish dimension. If it just fits inside a 4" square box, that's the one. The electrical box behind the old vanity light was mounted with a junction box connected to a wall brace between studs. Because of this, the holes on the junction box were at an angle, not horizontal. I need the holes to be horizontal in order to hang the new fixture.
I removed the old fixture, and low-and-behold, the ceiling is solid plywood in this area - and there is no box. Should one be added, or does having solid wood there negate the need for it? The wires are coming out of a roughly 3/4" hole in the wood. If a box is required, is a standard old work box ok? Can I mount a pancake box to the surface?Each fixture will be replacing a light box. Meaning it is a simple chrome plated box about 30" wide with a plastic diffuser and sat on top of a mirror. The challenge: The old light is connected to the power cable and there is no work box, it was simply screwed to the wall and wired up. The wire comes through the wall via a hole as big as the cable. The existing answers are correct in that you should not, in all likelihood, be attempting to remove this box or the wiring or the conduit.. However, to actually answer the question you asked, since there are occasions to actually remove and replace a box *. The nut that is visible inside the box on the cable clamp/conduit nipple is a standard righty-tighty, lefty .
What you want is called an "old work" box, a type which is designed to be installed into a finished wall from the living space side. Normally you'd get the round one for a light fixture (rectangular boxes are for switches or receptacles) because this will have holes spaced for attaching the light fixture. It is quite common to let the wire hang out for a vanity light because many vanity lights do not require a junction box in the wall. They are the ones that are built with what is essentially a large junction box. . Very shallow round junction boxes for light fixtures are easily purchasable. I hate them because they are so shallow, but they . One I found is 4 inch round, Carlon old work box 18 cu. Inch. Although it will be covered with plate, aesthetically , it looks too big. Wires are 14/2 NM cable, just need to extend existing wire with another cable. So junction box will have only 2 NM cables inside it. I prefer round but rectangle should work too. I need old work box. The light fixture I've purchased is just a standard wall lantern with a round base similar to this: I would like help understanding which electrical junction box is needed behind this and how it should be installed.
I just removed two bathroom vanity lights to replace them and discovered that there was no junction box behind either. One light was mounted over a stud and the other was right next the a stud. At first I thought I could . Just wonder whether it is easy to cut. Unless every ceiling outlet box (and a wall light box) was planned to go with a heavy chandelier, it would be a waste of material. The two boxes I am trying to remove are in the ceiling of a corridor and a vertical wall, and are probably not planned for heavy loads. I have a relatively large light fixture (Hampton Bay 20" LED round ceiling puff) that mounts like normal to a round ceiling box. I need to place a junction box (old work drywall box) in the ceiling near the fixture. Can the fixture cover the junction box? If so, should the junction box have the cover plate on or off?
When I went to install a new hanging light, the old junction box snapped as I tightened the screws. Pulling the old box out, I see only a small metal crossbar (maybe 10" long and a 1/4" thick) to attach the hanging light junction box. How do I attach a new box to that as I see no visible screw holes in it. I need to replace the ceiling box for a light (old work). The issue is that it is an old home with lath and plaster ceiling and drywall added later on top. The hole is right next to a beam. It looks like this: Now I have the issue that the ears of the normal old work box are not extending far enough to the back. They are made for drywall, so . Hey I just bought an older co-op from the 50’s. I want to put a ceiling fan in but ran into trouble. I was trying to take down the existing box and it has a nipple in the middle with a flat head screw slot in the bottom. I bought the usual box and anchor mechanism to put in but I have no idea how to get this box out.light; junction-box; vanity; old-work; Jim. 19; asked Dec 1, 2019 at 16:51. 9 votes. 3 answers. . will a 3.5 inch round junction box work or do I need one that is smaller, like 3-inches? Do they even make those? lighting; junction-box; Kevin Allan. 1; asked Nov 13, 2019 at 3:07. 0 votes.
There is a recessed vanity below so you're probably right. I cut a 4" hole planning to use the fan fixture but noticed the space is totally vacant as far as I can see.Stack Exchange Network. Stack Exchange network consists of 183 Q&A communities including Stack Overflow, the largest, most trusted online community for developers to learn, share their knowledge, and build their careers.. Visit Stack Exchange
I've got a wastewater vent stack that is dead-center behind the master bath vanity. (See attached picture.) Previously, there was a single light fixture. You can still see the box, which wasn't mounted to anything and which was off center. (It was a new work box, and I have NO idea what held it in place while they hung drywall. I live in an older house (California) and the overhead light fixture boxes seem small. They unreceptive to the fixtures my wife has purchased from Ikea in that they have two holes for accepting screws and no amount of cajoling the Ikea fixture will cause its holes to line up. I've picked up an adapter plate from a hardware store but none of its holes line up with the .
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old work round junction box for vanity light site diy.stackexchange.com|vanity light box replacement